Doctoral Theses (Textiles & Design)
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Item Interpreting tradition in the digital age : can the qualities of a 1930s to 1950s archival printed fabric be captured utilizing digital technology?(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-04) Smith, Grace; Parker, Mark; Thomas, Doctor SueThe development of printed textiles has taken on considerable change from its analogue European inception in the 18th Century to the digital mass market of the 21st Century. The introduction of digital textile printing has revolutionised the industry in the last decade, providing scope for unlimited design options and versatile production units. However, to coincide the authenticity of traditional methods such as screen-printing are being lost or replaced. Fortunately, archival resources provide opportunities to witness first-hand our past traditions and heritage. The intention of the research was to explore the possibilities presented by archive and digital technology utilization. The research employed archival resources to identify the key characteristics of 1930s to 1950s printed fabrics. The era was selected because of the significant development of process with the introduction of screen-printing for industrial application. In addition, designers injected colour, texture and pattern into their textiles in response to the austerity of economic downturn and the onset and conclusion of war. Consequently, this encouraged a new design aesthetic supported by industry journals such as The Ambassador and particular manufacturers of the time. A matrix of characteristics was devised via a case study of selected fabrics. The collected data was developed further utilizing current textile design software and hardware resulting in a series of test samples exploring the identified characteristics. Further analysis via a questionnaire and interview with an industrial printworks provided understanding to the opportunities presented from a commercial and industrial context. In conclusion, the research will investigate whether the qualities of archival printed fabrics can be captured utilizing digital technology. The research will attempt to determine that the preservation, reinterpretation and application of historical artefacts via digital means could be a tool to aid the preservation of traditional fabric making methods.Item From the loom to wear : shapeable woven textiles from seamless fashion(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-09) An, Kang Hyun; Keith, Doctor Sara; Kalkreuter, Doctor BrittaThere are various approaches in fashion and textile research which focus on how design processes could minimise environmental impact in order to make a more sustainable fashion and textile industry. One such approach is seamless or whole garment knitting technology, which results in much less fabric wastage than the ‘cut and sew’ method of garment manufacturing. However, seamless approaches in woven textile design have not been fully realised due to the characteristics of the woven fabrics. Moreover, research in seamless weaving has often focused on textile engineering and medical uses, and there has been little research into their use in fashion. In this research, a design practice of shapeable seamless woven garments is proposed as an alternative way of combining shapeable woven textiles and tubular weaving construction that leads to creative seamless garments that are versatile. Based on the action research process, this practice-based research examines five stages (planning, exploring, prototyping, observing and reflecting) that are used to transform woven textiles from the loom into fashion garments. The research explores three-dimensional and textural surface effects and different degrees of shrinkage of shapeable woven textiles that show inherent stretchability. In the prototyping stage, a series of shapeable seamless woven garments were created through both hand-weaving and the Jacquard weaving process. At this stage, the research demonstrated how 2D woven textile designs can be transformed into 3D fashion forms, and how prototype garments can be fitted on the body and worn in many different ways. In the observing and reflecting stages of the research, a questionnaire and focus group were conducted in order to assess external perspectives on, and evaluation of, practical outcomes of the research, i.e. specifically shapeable woven textiles and the effectiveness of the prototype designs. The research is capable of providing a creative way of designing seamless garments based on shapeable woven textiles by integrating key design considerations such as stretchability for adaptable fit, three-dimensional textural effects, versatility of prototype garments and material selection. By examining the above features, the research evaluates how the design process and practical outcomes enhance the product lifecycle and contribute to circular design and sustainability in fashion and textiles.Item Evaluating standardized pressure for garments used in scar management : pressure for burns scar therapy(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-09) Syron-Jones, Dawn; Macintyre, Doctor LisaPressure garments are used to treat scars after major trauma such as burns to suppress the over development of scars. Pressure garments can alleviate the patients discomfort caused by the appearance of the developing scar tissue as well as pain and itching that can be experienced. Some hospitals have in house teams making bespoke pressure garments for patients. The current method used in UK hospitals applies a reduction factor of between 10 and 20% to produce garments. There is little evidence of the pressure delivered by in-house or any pressure garments as pressure sensor equipment is often not available, time consuming and difficult to use and therefore pressure is not measured in clinics at garment fitting. An audit of pressures delivered by 8 previously made pressure garments was conducted. The fabric that had been used to make those garments was tested and a Pressure Garment Design (PGD) Tool was made based on the equations generated from this test data. The historical patient and garment dimensions were entered to the PGD tool. The audit showed that the reduction factor of 20% had exerted between 15mmHg and 54mmHg on these patient’s limbs. A pilot study was then undertaken to compare the standard 20% reduction factor method to the ‘Laplace Law’ method of calculating pressure garment dimensions using a PGD tool. 4 participants were enrolled in the study. Three garments were produced for each participant to trial, one using the reduction method currently used and two that were designed to exert known pressures of 15mmHg and 25mmHg. The garments were worn and washed in rotation for approximately 8 weeks. As is standard practise in clinic, all garments were assessed by the therapist to ensure they were suitable for use by the Participant and the scars assessed for maturation. Prior to issuing the garments and during the study the pressure delivered by the garments was measured using a PICOPRESS pressure monitor. The manual method of calculating garment dimensions using a calculator is time consuming and less accurate than The Pressure Garment Design tool, which proved easy to use, and versatile for the quick adjustment of measurement and pressure values for producing finished garment dimensions. The measuring process and resulting data highlighted problems with measuring pressure on such small limbs. The pressure delivered using all garments varied on the individual due to variations in soft tissue and bony areas and an ability to only measure pressure on flatter body parts of the smallest limbs, which indicates that pressure readings taken on the individual may not be a true indication of the average pressure delivered. The data collected from the Pressure Garment design tool, predicted pressures and the pressure readings on the cylinder, confirmed that the Pressure Garment Design Tool can be used to produce garments capable of delivering a known pressure, and that the reduction factor method delivers a varied pressure in an individual garment on different limb circumferences ranging from 52mmHg on a 17.2cm circumference to 15mmHg on a 37.2cm circumference.Item Product development for bovine fecal sampling and canine continence care(Heriot-Watt University, 2019-03) Cherrie, Lesley; Macintyre, Doctor LisaA key task in animal parasitology studies is the collection of faeces for analysis. In this project, a new device was developed. Anti-ballistic textiles were chosen for their tenacity and durability. Testing to international standards was undertaken to ensure suitability for animal use. The new product, launched in June 2017, was markedly different from the harness system previously used and reduced the fitting difficulties for animal care staff and discomfort for the animals. The key challenges tackled in its development were ensuring a good secure fit, taking account of sensitive areas on the animal’s body as well as the ease of positioning and removal of the collection device for staff. Unique design features were introduced to ensure comfort for the animal, and flexibility and longevity of the product, enabling the device to be fitted to animals of different ages and sizes. To facilitate full development of the bovine product the researcher worked in collaboration with Moredun Research Institute, who were able to give feedback on the functionality of the product. The researcher also collaborated with the manufacturer J&D Wilkie, who produced the prototypes and subsequent revisions. As a result of the design and development work on the bovine product, an additional simplified product to manage canine incontinence and sampling was also created. The design of both products was optimised for efficient manufacture and the production process and cost were considered at every stage of design development.Item The intermolecular interactions of branching onto collagen chains and its effects on the formation of nanocomposite fibres(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-12) Bazrafshan, Zahra; Stylios, Professor George K.; Sun, Associate Professor DanmeiCollagen is an important biomimetic material. Several attempts to electrospin this biopolymer have proved difficult due to significant denaturation and degradation occurring while being dissolved in a solvent and spun. Acid soluble collagen (ASC) was successfully pre-treated by grafting Methyl Methacrylate-coEthyl Acrylate onto its chains leading to ASC-g-poly(methyl methacrylate-co-ethyl acrylate) (CME). This was not only to add stability to its structure but also allowed electrospinning of the material which would otherwise have a deteriorating effect on its degradation rate and would have required post treatment. Experimental relations depending on monomer feed ratios and physiochemical properties of side chains that affect fibre formation, diameter, and distribution were investigated. Increasing the number of branching onto ASC chains can significantly reduce the deteriorative impact of electrospinning conditions along with improving its stability in high humidity conditions. The short chain branching onto ASC chains can effectively influence the fibre thermal stability while long chain branching provides a higher density of chain entanglements that improves fibre uniformity. The study has shown how to process a composite fibre which can consist of CME with a structurally and electrically incompatible polymer, by using coaxial electrospinning. Nylon 66 has been taken as an example of this methodology. By tailoring the intensity of the electric field, different fibre content was achieved from the core and shell components, leading to varied physical properties; thermal, mechanical and degradability. The effect of chain orientation and intermolecular interactions between two structurally different polymer chains were investigated; custom-built electrostatics and supplementary bonding e.g. hydrogen bonds were identified the major factors for the design of reinforced CME/nylon 66 core-shell fibres. Finally, a functionalisation methodology has been successfully established in which SMART nanofillers, such as graphene oxide (GO) is attached to CME. By increasing the GO content, significantly increases were achieved in the performance of polymerisation onto ASC. This nanofiller can improve the physiochemical properties of ASC chains, the same as the grafted side chains. It was found that humidity and temperature play key roles in the degradation rate of GO-CME composite; above 50 oC, GO is not as stable as branches on the surface of collagen chains. The impact of this research is in the ability of collagen to be used in a variety of applications by making it more stable via grafting from new end groups. In consequence, new methodologies in electrospinning of nanofibres; composite fibres and smart nanofillers become possible, imparting new properties and new possibilities of this biopolymer for numerous end uses.Item Investigating fashion manufacture within international development : discussing intention and efficacy(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-01) Black, Julia Katherine; Thomas, Doctor SueThis research examines the emerging role of fashion manufacture in the context of international development, as an example of market-led development. The role of fashion brands addressing development issues as a core tenant of their commercial operations is systematically analysed, from the perspective of both production and consumption. The research asks whether fashion manufacture can function as a valuable agent or tool within international development, and critically appraises if such practices perpetuate notions of dependency. This study is exploratory and interpretive in nature. Online discourse analysis was initially used to critically deconstruct marketing methodologies and language utilised within fifteen e-commerce platforms of ‘fashion for development’ initiatives, extending the scope of prior research. Following this initial mapping, the research was furthered by undertaking seven interviews in the Spring of 2017 with leading policy professionals, development charities, trade facilitators, socially motivated garment manufactures, and several ‘sole practitioners’ operating SMEs in sub-Saharan Africa. Findings indicate a constructive and nuanced discourse amongst professional stakeholders interviewed. Consultation of development professionals, trade facilitators, and socially motivated garment manufacturers established a profitable dialogue disclosing the intent of current practitioners. This study appraises the efficacy and intent of the discourse in light of current development literature. Results suggest, however, that care must be taken in the subsequent marketing of ‘fashion for development’ products to avoid troublesome tropes concerned with neo-colonial representations of beneficiaries. In addition, the research latterly evaluates the role of consumption within development discourse.Item Inkjet printing of natural dyes on natural protein fibres(Heriot-Watt University, 2015-05) Palacios Guberti, Silvana BeatrizAbstract and full text not available - Please refer to PDF.Item Making the invisible visible, the intangible tangible: unlocking and engineering active and passive ‘smart’ potential in yarns using aluminium and photochromic dyes(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-08) Ward, Stephanie Carol; Kalkreuter, Doctor Britta; Christie, Professor RobertWell-being has been used as the motivation for yarn design to integrate positive affect (hedonic) and eudaimonic perspectives with the reflectance and absorption of light within the UV and visible light spectrum. An interdisciplinary approach applies Durling and Niedderer, (2013;2007), 'Designing to Test' and 'Designing as Demonstration' as the platform to develop two photochromic systems with aluminium. This combines yarn design, colour chemistry, textile engineering and textile design. 'Designing as Creative Exploration' (Durling and Niedderer 2013;2007) observes how users and materials respond to natural and controlled UV light using photographic, video and microscopic methods leading to an entire range of smart aluminium photochromic yarns. 'Designing as Data Exploration' is introduced to determine bespoke light reflectance and absorption values within the invisible and visible light spectrum to enable solutions relating to light affecting health and well-being for individuals and aspects of the built environment. Ultraviolet light has both benefits and risks relating to human health and has been found to have positive euphoric, yet addictive associations with sunbed use. For sufferers of Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) it provides a positive and raised mood. The different percentages of light reflectance and absorbance within the yarns provide positive (hedonic) affect which aims in alleviating sunbed addiction and treatment of SAD during winter months. They also act as UV detection tools for cancer awareness.Item Decolonising design and heritage in craft development courses : examples from Sri Lanka, India and Scotland(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-09) Greru, Greruge Chamithri Buddhini; Kalkreuter, Doctor BrittaCraft tends to be recognised both as a material culture and as a practice which ranges from local production schemes to global design industries. As much as it is a cultural asset, craft is also valued highly as an economic asset that offers development opportunities to most parts of the world, where ‘Craft Development’ becomes a concern of national and international agencies which exercise a hegemonic view, and is often said to marginalise the local participation during that process. When development cascades to the more discreet levels of the grassroot communities, precarious conditions are created that affect the material culture of craft objects, ideas of creativity, labour practices, class structures, the identities of makers, production processes and markets. It is also the case that corporate and government regulations put in place to ameliorate such issues actually exacerbate them. However, little is known about how the ‘local people’ adapt to these changes alongside a hegemonic view and in return the way they construct their everyday realities. In this context, multiple actors are involved in shaping craft development discourse (e.g. international and national institutions, governments, NGOs, businesses, designers, design schools etc.) where they use ‘heritage’ and ‘design’ to create a particular view about craft development and to talk about it. By mapping how local heritage craft is understood in relation to the global design industry, who mediates and how they mediate in this local-global process, a multi-sited ethnographic research strategy is adopted by following people, metaphor, story and things in, Sri Lanka, India and Scotland—which also provides a comparative interface between East and West. The analysis of the case study and fieldwork data argues for a ‘decolonising’ situation being promoted for design and heritage, moving away from the established authorised notions to have more marginalised viewpoints included. Ways in which this might be achieved were tested as part of this study, through anthropological enquiry, and in the form of a ‘charrette’. In doing so the research attempts to fill one of the critical gaps in both heritage and design studies—that is to propose ‘approaches’ to increase community participation. This is also a major limitation of UNESCO’s 2003 convention on Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH), of which traditional craft is a part. The research concludes by offering insights into the formation of policy and practice through an interdisciplinary framework that combines heritage, craft, and design and anthropology.Item Investigation into a novel textile biodegradable device for the prevention of paediatric dental caries(Heriot-Watt University, 2018-08) Dunn, Gail Jennifer; Sun, Doctor Danmei; Fotheringham, Doctor AlexDental caries is the most common oral disease and usually begins in childhood. It affects a large percentage of children and adults worldwide. Bacteria, acid and saliva form plaque, which sticks to the teeth. If this plaque is not removed then the acid in the plaque damages the tooth enamel. If this early stage of caries is not treated then the disease progresses into cavities. The advanced stage of caries requires the diseased part of the tooth to be removed and replaced with a filling or the tooth extracted. This study investigates the use of a novel biopolymer called Solanyl as part of a biodegradable dental insert for the prevention of caries in children. It is a slow release device, which does not rely on patient compliance. The device comprises of three layers: a polysaccharide mixed with a flavouring on top, a hydrogel with an antibacterial agent in the middle and a biopolymer with anti-caries agent as the bottom layer. Solanyl is currently only used for making plant pots and plant identification markers. This will be the first time that it will have been used for biomedical purposes. This thesis presents the results from many experiments which were designed to evaluate the tensile strength, degradation rates and slow-release abilities of the developed novel biodegradable polymer. The polysaccharide used was Pullulan which had an average degradation rate of 154 secs. The hydrogel used was 5% CM500 containing 2% Chlorhexidine which had an average hourly chlorhexidine release rate of 6.231ppm/g. Solanyl with the addition of sodium fluoride was extruded into tapes. The tapes containing 8% NaF performed the best overall. The average tensile strength was 0.006 N/tex and the % elongation was 0.418 %/tex. The tapes were designed to degrade over weeks or months which was shown by slow-release rates of sodium fluoride and by SEM imaging. The average amount of fluoride released each week was 105.634 ppm/g and the average amount released after 1 month was 152.113 ppm/g. These properties were investigated in order to evaluate if a three-layer biodegradable device for the prevention of paediatric dental caries was possible to manufacture, be easy to insert by dentists and be cost effective.